Polperro a spectacular few miles along the coast from Looe, is a different kettle of fish. Sheltered from the ravages of time and tide in its cliff ravine, it's an enchanting jumble of cottages, each one unmistakably the work of a Cornish fisherman. What he wanted was a place on shore to store his gear and his pilchard catch, and over that a loft divided into rooms like the cuddy of his boat. He reached the ground by means of stone or wooden steps, like a ship's gangway. You see, his idea of a dwelling was that of a ship in stone. And there's a fleet of them at anchor in Polperro.

Wending your way through the traffic-free streets to the small harbour, you're treading the paths where barrows of fish were once carted and, under cover of night, brandy casks and tobacco bales were carried into their hideouts. Make no mistake, this peaceful fishing cove, mellow Polperro, was once a thriving centre for the area's smuggling. Wagonloads of contraband left here, some heading across Bodmin Moor en route to London. The 'freetraders' have long since sailed into folk history and the shining shoals of pilchards have gone, but a visit to the smuggling museum brings this rich heritage back to life.

Today, in cellars where furtive smugglers once dodged the customs men's muskets, you can see displays of local crafts and fishermen's smocks, or you can dine in style at one of Polperro's excellent restaurants. Pulling into Polperro from the sea is an unforgettable experience, especially when you've caught a basket full of fish! Fishing trips or pure pleasure cruises are easy to arrange from the quayside. Or take the cliff path to explore the secluded smuggling coves of Talland and Lantivet Bay.

One of the most popular places in Cornwall, the village of Polperro is undoubtedly one of the prettiest. Packed tightly into a steep valley on either side of the River Pol, the quaint colour-washed cottages and twisting streets offer surprises at every turn: the Saxon and Roman bridges, the famous House on Props, the old Watch House, the fish quay, and the 16th century house where Dr. Jonathan Couch lived, naturalist and grandfather of the celebrated writer Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch. With its protected inner harbour full of colourful boats. Polperro is still a working fishing village, although tourism provides the main source of income. Attractions include a Museum of Smuggling and a Model Village.